Spotlight on Nova Scotia - The Cabot Trail
I peeled my left eyelid open to see the fog sitting on top of us. This could not have turned out any worse for our morning plans.
We were in Cheticamp on Cape Breton Island about to take on the Cabot Trail before heading to Halifax. Our hosts at the B&B were encouraging us to go for a hike along the Skyline Trail at the beginning of the Cabot Trail, if you’re starting out of Cheticamp on the west side entrance to the park. However, with the fog settling in overnight, there was no point in walking a trail for an hour to a viewpoint covered in fog. So here we were at 7:00 am eating breakfast around a table with other visitors to the B&B, who averaged an age of about 55, with a decision to make. Don’t get me wrong about the age thing. It was just funny being so much younger than everybody else. It was also a great comparison to traveling. Abby and I ate an apple and drank cheap beers for dinner the previous night, while the other guests talked about the amazing spreads and wines they enjoyed. Let me tell you, I love roughing it, but I also can’t wait until I can kick it like that.
The fog wasn’t just obstructing with our morning plans. The longer it lingered, the less we would see because of our deadline to be in Halifax that evening. We finished up breakfast and headed for Skyline with hopes of the sky lightening up. No luck! Back in the car, we made the decision to go until nature told us to stop, which wasn’t long. We noticed another couple sleeking off into the woods on a marked lake trail about 5 kms past Skyline. Naturally, we invaded their private walk together. It wasn’t long before the couple turned around and gave the trail to us. The fog continued to hold, which created an eerie environment to walk in. Abby suddenly noticed a female moose with two babies, camouflaged in the woods as we passed by. What an amazing couple of minutes watching these creatures. I would provide pictures, but I had the wrong lens at the time and I wasn’t going to approach a mom with her children. We continued on the trail until we reached the lake and then turned back for the car. We got really close to a crazy bird that reminded me of a pretty grouse or something, and the moose were gone as we walked back.
We drove on for awhile longer and then, just like out of a movie, we approached a place called Pleasant Bay and that it was. The fog was gone, and I could tell these clouds would not hold. This is what we came for. The road started to lead downhill towards the water and shoreline, and our first major stop came at Neils Harbour — a must stop in my opinion. Neils Harbour is a tiny town with a great beach and wonderful little harbour. Abby and I hopped out of the car and played on the beach for a bit and then went to the local eatery for a tea and coffee. Down the road was a wicked beach that the waitress in Neils Harbor had recommended. It was more like a park setting, and for the first time that day we were amongst groups of tourists, eek!
The day began to fly by, as did the amazing views, beaches and local pit stops. We pulled the car into Ingonish and stopped at an amazing white sand beach, which reached for miles. Time continued to slip, so we knew the stops would be less frequent, but sacrifices would be made.
We drove over hills and along the beach for a couple more hours before stopping in Baddeck for a photo op. Baddeck is also where the realization of the trek to the Halifax airport to pick up Mick and Jessica hit us.
I truly wish I had at least three days to explore the Cabot Trail. However, even on a short clock, I’m thrilled to say I’ve done it, because it truly is amazing. In my opinion, roll the dice on the Cabot Trail even if you have just a sliver of time.
By Greg Miller
