Cortes Island
I had the pleasure of visiting this beautiful Island recently and used the oppurtunity to explore its many treasures. Cortes Island is reached via Campell River, the ferry ride to Quadra Island is only 10 minutes, a quick drive gets you to Heriot Bay where the ferry to Cortes Island is docked. After a beautiful 40 minutes ferry ride you arrive at Whaletown on Cortes Island.
Whaletown is pretty small, but very interesting with its old buildings and dock. Whaletown hosts one of the smallest post offices that I’ve ever seen. Behind it is a large tidal zone and on low tide it is teaming with life. Oysters are collected here and by the looks of it there are plenty to catch.
Oyster Shells
Going further by Whaletown Road you can stop and have a cup of espresso at Trudes Café. There is a Public Internet access at the café, convenient for those who need to stay connected at all times.
Gorge Harbour Road leads you to Gunflint Lake and finally to a beautiful harbour, called Mansons Landing. The shoreline looks tropical around Mansons Landing, white sands and gradual sloping beaches. Again there are oysters and clams abound around the bay. Be careful though and look for warnings regarding shellfish consumption that are posted around the place.
Heading south brings you to Smelt Bay Provincial Park, long beaches with a view to the west. Smelt Bay Provincial Park has camping, open from May 1st to September 30th. Reservations are made through Discover Camping. Here you also find the Wally Hansen Memorial Vista.
Driving east from Smelt Bay Provincial Park via Bartholomew Road you reach Cortes Bay, a beautiful bay with a boat ramp and beach access. Further east Squirrel Cove lies facing Desolation Sound. Squirrel Cove is a reservation for the Klahoose First Nation and in the village you can see an old Catholic church. It reminded me of the small churches in Iceland, very European in appearance.
Von Donop Inlet, or Ha’thayim Marine Park is reachable from a trail head just west of Squirrel Cove. Von Donop Inlet is a very long inlet, frequented by sailboats and a perfect spot for canoeing or kayaking. Very shallow waters teaming with life, and one of the clearest echoes I have heard in a while. Try some howling and listen to it multiplied by the valleys and mountains around Von Donop Inlet. Howling is appropriate as the area around Von Donop Inlet is the home to a large pack of Wolfs. Cortes Island apparently has a small problem with the growing numbers of wolfs on the island. Read about that here.
Other places that look interesting are the Carrington Inlet, reached by a trail leading east from Carrington Road. Hague and Gunflint lakes are also easy to hike to, there is a trail looping around them accessible from Kiwas Bay Road.
Story and Photography Snorri Gunnarsson
Cortes Island Links
Friends of Cortes Island Society
Von Donop Inlet, Ha’thayim Marine Park








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